Mountain Safety When Climbing in Nepal
Our attitude to safety is unique in that our founder is from time to time contracted by Kilimanjaro National Park Authority to conduct safety work on the mountain and to advise on route selection and accident prevention.
He was responsible for determining the cause of the rockslide in January 2006 that killed three climbers. (See the Western Breach Accident Investigation Report, a discussion of the causes and proposed reaction of the National Park following the tragic accident of January 2006. Further information and videos are available on our dedicated Western Breach page).
Therefore, as we commence our journey to Everest Base Camp, we are carrying our extensive knowledge and experience with us. Moreover, we intend to utilise our previous encounters and expertise to guarantee a triumphant and secure ascent to the peak of the mountain.
Use of Gamow Bags on Everest Base Camp
The W A Gamow bag, also known as a hyperbaric chamber or portable altitude chamber, is a compact and sealed chamber that can comfortably accommodate an adult in a reclined position. By connecting a foot pump to a valve inlet, the chamber can be filled with air to replicate the desired altitude. This mechanism is based on the principle that air pressure increases as elevation decreases.
While these devices are highly recommended for Mount Everest expeditions, where it may take up to four days to reach a safe altitude on the north side and regular sessions in the bag can temporarily raise a climber's SpO2 levels to prevent cerebral and pulmonary edema during evacuation, using a Gamow bag on Toubkal is typically not a feasible option due to associated delays. Instead, immediate descent is usually the preferred course of action.
Using Helicopter Evacuation / Flying Doctor Scheme
Evacuation helicopter services are provided on Mount Everest in the event of emergencies or severe medical conditions. These helicopters can be summoned to transport climbers or trekkers from higher altitudes to lower areas or to Kathmandu for medical treatment.
Typically, trekking agencies, mountaineering companies, or the Nepal government coordinate these helicopter rescue services. They collaborate with specialised helicopter companies that are skilled in high-altitude rescues. The helicopters employed for such operations are specifically equipped and capable of flying at great heights.
It's important to emphasise that helicopter rescues on Everest are generally considered a last resort and are reserved for emergency situations requiring immediate medical attention. They are not meant for non-emergency situations or as a convenience for transportation. If you plan to climb or trek in the Everest region, it is essential to have sufficient travel insurance that includes coverage for emergency evacuation services.
Please bear in mind that arranging and executing a helicopter rescue can be complicated and depend on various factors such as weather conditions, helicopter availability, and the seriousness of the situation. Additionally, the cost of a helicopter rescue can be substantial, so it is crucial to ensure that your travel insurance covers such expenses.
Regardless, it is always recommended to prioritise safety, be prepared, and follow the guidance of experienced guides or tour operators when hiking or climbing in the Everest region.
Use of Supplemental Emergency Oxygen
After receiving oxygen, it is advisable to choose a rapid descent rather than continuing to ascend, as further climbing poses a risk. The intake of air rich in oxygen at high altitudes deactivates the body's mechanisms for adapting to such conditions, which increases the chances of experiencing hypoxia once the supplemental oxygen supply is exhausted.
A climber who is succumbing to severe AMS will typically require supplemental oxygen during a period of depressed respiratory drive, such as sleeping. In the Khumbu we do not carry supplemental oxygen as there is replete availability throughout the valley, at guesthouses - which negates the need to carry it ourselves.
Pulse Oximeter
A finger is secured with a small plastic clamp, allowing two wavelengths of light to penetrate the tissue. The extent to which haemoglobin absorbs light at a specific wavelength corresponds to the level of oxygen saturation in the blood. This measurement provides an accurate estimate of a person's blood oxygen level. However, it is important for climbers to breathe normally during the readings, as hyperventilation or breath-holding can result in an artificially low pulse rate or a falsely high SpO2 reading.
We generally discourage climbers from frequently using pulse oximeters to assess their condition and acclimatisation at high altitudes or to diagnose the onset of acute mountain sickness. This is because we have observed that most users struggle to interpret the readings accurately. Many individuals mistakenly believe that a high SpO2 reading guarantees safety and indicates better health compared to a low SpO2 reading. This misconception is dangerous because a climber may still experience altitude-related complications even with a high SpO2 reading, leading the person monitoring them to believe they are safe when they are not, potentially resulting in fatal consequences.
In contrast, we consistently notice that individuals in poor physical condition may trigger an emergency response that raises their SpO2 levels at relatively low altitudes. Conversely, well-trained athletes who regularly push their bodies beyond their anaerobic thresholds may not experience significant physiological changes until much higher altitudes. This is because their bodies perceive mild hypoxia as relatively normal, as they encounter it during their demanding training sessions on a regular basis when there is no risk involved.
Therefore, a healthy and adequately acclimatised athlete may have an SpO2 reading of 70%, while an unfit person may have a reading of 80%. It is crucial to recognise that cerebral edema can develop even with an SpO2 saturation of 80%. We strongly discourage the indiscriminate use of oximeters, as the readings are only beneficial when interpreted by experienced and qualified individuals. Instead, it is preferable to rely on the experienced guide's ability to recognise symptoms of danger in a climber.
Portable Defibrillators at High Altitude
Sir Ranulph Fiennes credits his survival to a portable defibrillator that was available at Bristol Airport. It is widely acknowledged that portable defibrillators have saved numerous lives and it is strongly recommended that individuals with serious heart conditions have access to them, except in high-altitude settings. Despite being frequently mentioned on Everest expedition equipment lists, there have been no reported cases of portable defibrillators saving lives during high-altitude expeditions.
The Yoga retreat camp is nestled in Nagarkot, a tranquil village in the Bhaktapur district, about 25 km from Kathmandu. The drive from Kathmandu takes around 2 hours. This peaceful location offers breathtaking views of the Himalayas and is surrounded by lush green hills, making it the perfect retreat for those seeking peace and a connection with nature. The retreat features a blend of daily yoga, meditation, sound healing sessions, and hikes in the nearby hills.
On arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, once you've passed through Immigration and retrieved your luggage, please look out for your Team Mount Everest driver carrying a placard with your name who will transfer you to Hotel Buddy for overnight on bed and breakfast basis.
On arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, once you've passed through Immigration and retrieved your luggage, please look out for your Team Mount Everest driver carrying a placard with your name who will transfer you to Hotel Buddy for overnight on bed and breakfast basis.
On arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, once you've passed through Immigration and retrieved your luggage, please look out for your Team Mount Everest driver carrying a placard with your name who will transfer you to Hotel Buddy for overnight on bed and breakfast basis.